Large-sleeved Bolero pattern drafted

I did a pattern-drafting course in Róisín Cross Silks in Dún Laoghaire, Co. Dublin under Sarah Foy. It was very good. I designed a pattern for a bolero. A large-sleeved bolero.

I made copies for all the ladies in the class and posted them to them as Christmas presents!

 I made it up in a colouredy silk but I found it hard to match anything to the bolero and I never actually wore it; I put on weight and it no longer fit. So I gave it away without taking a photograph.

 All I have are these pictures of the pattern! And the pattern itself.

Tutorial photos v Reality photos

I'm not sure which of these images to show first.
I wanted to make my own "stretch fabrics gauge" from cardboard.
One of the photos is taken when I got the thought "I should document making this".

While I was making it, I had fifteen pens, a few rulers, two cutting mats, blade, spare blades, green pouch to store blades, instructions for how to draw the gauge, red cardboard, red cardboard remnants and probably a cup of coffee strewn all over my desk (only some of which is captured in the picture).

The second photograph is taken after I realised "I didn't use a lot of the equipment that is strewn all over my desk" and tidied up the desk and put things away.

So which is the more useful image to demonstrate how I went about making this for myself?
Often when I follow a tutorial, it recommends "2B pencil, L-Square, Clear-Grided-Ruler..." - I don't have these items! Or I do and I can't find them, so I pull out what's to hand and instead of having a tidy list of 4 items, I have a mishmash of items that I'm making do with.
It can get very disheartening for a learner to see an online video or a blog tutorial with really tidy photos and neat point-by-point directions, no hiccups, no lines that don't align and all equipment spick-and-span, unbroken and exactly what is required for the job.

Have you ever seen a pencil sharpener in an online tutorial?!
(Have you ever rummaged to look for a pencil sharpener *during* a tutorial?!)
On the other hand, the tutor has to consider the most effective way to instruct the reader/viewer. And clutter wouldn't be helpful. But I think it is fascinating to see the contrast and to see how marketing and "the perfect image" can block us and be an obstacle to following our own haphazard make-do creativity.

Online course for Stretch Fabric Pattern Drafting

Last week, I signed up for an online course with BurdaStyle Academy: Pattern Drafting and Designing for Stretch Fabrics.
I've made myself two dresses which i *adore* and wear a lot. I can't find any pics of them on this blog so I may never have blogged about them. I wear them all the time, the minute they are out of the wash, I am wearing them again. Basically just a "long-sleeve, high-round-neck top, past-the-knee skirt"-dress. Very suitable for the Irish climate. No pullovers required, no mixing matching of different items. One garment and I'm dressed.
This is the pattern I used for the dresses:

I didn't do the funny split at the elbow, and I lengthened it a bit. But I've since sold the pattern.
I've bought more fabric to make another dress. But have been humming and hawing over blocks I have from a year or two ago, not sure if they'll fit, checking the measurements etc. So to give me a little push, I decided to take this online course.
I'm very happy with it for no other reason than it shows that I should be more confident about my pattern-drafting, there's not that much to it and I am totally able for it. So watch this space... pics of stretch-fabric garments ahoy.
But first... an audit of the stretch fabrics I have in my stash.

Clasp purses

Moving on from my experiments with zipped and boxed pouches, I finally wanted to grapple with clasp purses. You know those ready made purse handles that can be bought in haberdasherys?

I had saved a tutorial from the Village Haberdashery for this project: Emily's frame purse tutorial. I now see that it was written over two years ago! This is how long it takes sometimes to get around to doing projects!!!

I can't remember exactly where I bought the clasp I have, but I quickly realised it was a different style to the one Emily uses in her tutorial :(

See? Mine has holes in it whereas the other clasp has a groove where I assume the fabric gets squeezed in. I think I remember at the time I was buying it, that I had a notion it was more "authentic" to sew a purse on to the clasp than to "squeeze" the fabric in between the grips... sigh.

Ok, so now I don't have a tutorial to follow, but there was a sheet of directions with the clasp. Multilingual directions.

The English is translated from German by someone who doesn't sew, for example "stitch the left edges of both bag pouches together" - they mean "wrong sides of fabrics facing". Also the English says "Layout has a 1cm seam allowance all around", again, from reading the German, and also the French, I conclude that the pattern doesn't include this allowance but that it must be added!!!

So I get some beautiful velvet and some beautifuller satin and I set about cutting it as per the pattern instructions on the sheet.

I don't succeed with the purse. The fabrics are too unmanageable, especially considering this is my first time grappling with this purse clasp :(
Also, it appears that the clasp would be visible on the inside of the purse, that the lining wouldn't conceal it.
I decide I need to use fabrics that don't fray so I'm not dealing with turning inside out etc... This is a new thing I'm exploring in my sewing-life... fabrics that don't fray! I'm planning on making more babies bibs and they would be made much easier if I could avoid turning inside-out etc, but that's a different project!
So I go to my stash and find some oilcloth and some fleece. Oilcloth for the outside and fleece for the lining.
And I try to sew these shapes on to the metal clasp, threading through the holes.

Can you sense my frustration with this? Ok, so the thread I have looks flimsy, but when I tried to use a thicker thread (it was wool actually), the larger needle I had to use didn't fit through all the holes - the holes at the bend of the metal are squidged and misformed and smaller :(

But I persevere... and end up with this... (yes, I know it's turned inside out around the body of the purse, the non-fray concept comes into its own at the point where the fabrics touch the clasp)

The pattern cutting instructions were just not helpful, they should have addressed something about the section around the hinge. There was no help for cutting the fabric to take account of the hinge, what they said was "complete the bag pouch at the line ends as required".
So I think I need to go back to the Emily tutorial, and follow her steps for drafting the purse shape and hope that it will then fit in with the different metal clasp that I have.

Why is it so difficult?! Should the clasp manufacturer not provide an instruction booklet if it proves to be so useless? This is why we need to go to classes, to learn from each other, to share experience and avoid all this frustration.

My Personal Blocks

What are those multi-coloured pieces of cardboard on that hanger?!

I've been doing a pattern-drafting course at Róisín Cross Silks in Dún Laoghaire with Sarah Foy. It's a brilliant class. I'm learning so much, flying along.
Have done skirt and bodice blocks. The green peeping out from the back is my skirt block:

Could be better curved I guess between hip and waistline. And sorry you can't see the darts very well.
I went with shades of red/orange/yellow for my bodice blocks, it was especially important to differentiate between the skirt block of it and the stand-alone skirt block.

 And the sleeve is cut from red cardboard.

I'm enjoying it sooo much. I'm also doing an art class in NCAD "Drawing Approaches" on the same day. There is no doubt about the class I prefer, although the art class is excellent - I have a natural draw to the pattern-drafting, problem-solving, practical, tangible aspect of the design-work as opposed to the artistic expressive drawing output!

Anticipating the Knitting and Stitching Show at the RDS

I'm looking forward to going to the Knitting and Stitching Show at the RDS on Thursday in Dublin. I got a list of exhibitors from the website of the exhibition organisers, Twisted Thread. The link mightn't always work so I've pasted the list here for my own future reference. Here is what the "suppliers" page on my blog has been trying to achieve! A listing of places in Ireland for dressmaking etc supplies.

List of companies exhibiting
COMPANY NAME - STAND NUMBER
#
The 62 Group celebrating 50 years TGPD15
A
A Rubanesque G5
Abacus Beads (Belfast) A9
Ahmed’s Leathers Ltd B17
John Allen  TGE25
Alpaca Select B9
Alphabet Jigsaw K23
Aly’s Inky Fingers K15
Anglia Textile Works: Themes and Variations TGB7
Art Van Go TGC1
Artistic Handbags - Ann Lacy D3
B
Ballyphehane / Togher Community Arts & Crafts Initiative TGB15
BDI Beads E3
Bead Spider P1
Beads and Bling Ltd E21
Bee Bee Wools - Fancy Yarn N9
Bernina Electronic Machine Centre G7
The Black Sheep R1
Karin Boyes - Eastleigh College TGA17
Braidmakers Workshop G27
Brother Sewing Machines K8
Butterick & Vogue Patterns G13
C
Caitlín Uí Chéidigh - GMIT TGF3
Caroline’s Accessories L5
Rachel Caswell P3
Color Improvisations curated by Nancy Crow TGF15
Colourcraft C&A Ltd C1
Alice Colson - Manchester School of Art  TGA1
The Constant Knitter C3
Cork Textiles Network TGC7
The Cotton Shed K6
Craft Lines of Essex A13
Crafts Council of Ireland  TGG5
Craftspun Yarns K20
Crafty Angels D7
The Crafty Fox G14
Create with Kate G11
D
www.decopatch.co.uk L21
Design Perfection M0
DGH Promotions E19
Dimension Stamps E5
Discover Aloe F16
Doughtys Patchwork and Quilting N2
Dublin Embroiderers Guild M27
Samantha Duffee - Buckinghamshire New UniversityTGA13
E
Earthly Emporium M20

Earthly Emporium G16
Eurotherapy Q23
F
Fabrics Galore E1
Fabrics Galore K25
Fabulous Felt Kate Ramsey K4
FantasticRibbons.com C21
Fashion & Health E23
Felt - Aleksandra Winiarska Q13
Feltmakers Ireland N29
The Fennel Shed M6
Fiddlesticks Fabrics K5
Filament Textiles F30
First Steps Lounge TGD25
Fly Away: from inmates of Limerick Prison K25
Fosters Chocolates C0
G
Glitterati Crafts M2
Good Feet C23
Grafton Academy of Dress Designing E9
Green Acres Quilts M13
Green Angel N15
Green Angel Ltd N17
Guild of Irish Lacemakers M25
H
Jane E Hall TGC3
Hand Stitch Perspectives  TGE15
Helen Garvey - GMIT TGF3
Hidden Celt Q15
Hilary Hollingworth TGA15
Hotshotcraft.co.uk Q7
Hotshotcraft.co.uk Q7
Husqvarna Viking Waterford M12
I
i of the needle P17
ICA (Irish Countrywomen’s Association) P27
Indigo Craft C15
Ingrid de Vane Ltd C17
The Innocent Big Knit SH1
IQFOI / Sew Many Places N25
Irish Country Living (Irish Farmers Journal) E25
The Irish Countrywomen’s Association (ICA) M29
Irish Guild of Embroiderers C29
Irish Guild of Weavers, Spinners & Dyers L29
Irish Quilting P19
J
Jacana B7
Jiani Charms Belfast Bead Shop F14
Just Art Stitch  D13
K
Kilbora Quilt Shoppe N11
Noor Kimit - Manchester Metropolitan University TGB25
Knitting 4 fun D1
L
The Lace Guild E11
Lauralynn Children’s Hospice F18Sarah Levy - GMIT TGF3
Limerick College of Further Education P23
Limerick Institute of Technology: School of Art & Design  G25
Limerick Quilt Centre M4
Linden Lady Chocolates L4
Little Gifts Ltd F27
Love to Knit Bray G23
The Lucet Co D25
M
Made in Westmeath L27
Magee Weaving N6
Magic Clip P21
Mary Murphy-Madigan G9
Meiflower Q1
Miliner Warehouse M23
Adnan Mirza - Glasgow School of Art TGA3
Moira C on TV K21
Molten Designs E4
Mr Dan B5
mxy Ltd D15
N
NCAD Textiles TGE5
Needlethreader D27
Nicola Flint - De Montfort University TGA11
NKM Shows L2
O
Terri O’Brien - NCAD TGA25
Jessica Odell-Foster - West Wales School of the ArtsTGA19
Oliver Twists  K2
P
Rachel Parker - Norwich University College of the Arts (NUCA) TGA9
Patchwork Plus F12
Paua2thePeople R17
Payper Box R20
Pfaff Sewing Machines Waterford C4
Pippablue F25
Planet Purple Kids P15
R
R&Z Accessories L25
Rags for Linda F9
The Real Massage Co C24
M Rosenberg & Son N23
Rowandean Embroidery B1
Lorna Rowley - NCAD TGA21
Royal School of Needlework TGF10
S
Saffron & Sapphire B3
SBP Health Q11
The Sewing Shed R5
Sewing World / British Patchwork & Quilting magazine  D21
Siesta Frames Ltd G1
SilkFelt G21
Natalie Simone Davies - Manchester Metropolitan University TGA5
Singer Sewing Centre F5
Something Nice IRL A15
The Southampton Bead Shop A7
Stamposaurus Craft Supplies B21Stitch-Witch R3
Stormhall Ltd R13
Stunt Giraffe Acoustic Textiles - Edinburgh College of Art  TGA7
T
Terri Studio Designs E17
The Handbag Company D0
Totally Beads Ltd Q8
Totally Beads Ltd Q9
Trim The Tree A11
Trim Wool Shop Ltd N21
Trim Wool Shop Ltd M15
Trudy Anne Designs B15
Tetvana Tvshkevvch - GMIT TGF3
U
University of Ulster TGF5
V
Val Holmes   Inside / Outside  Intaglio/Relief TGE7
Village Fabrics M8
Vivid Crafts E15
W
Laura Weber - NCAD TGA23
Winnie’s Wool Wagon C7
The Women of Algeria E29
Women of Finglas, the M27
WonderFil Specialty Threads Q3
The Wool Shop F1
Y
The Yarn Room P4
Yellow Brick Road P13
Yorkshire Book Company A1
Yorkshire Book Company A10
Z
Zentangle ® Designs E13

Disappointment - another pattern drafting course cancelled

I signed up to an adult evening course in a nearby community college; in Hartstown near Blanchardstown. It was to run over 18 weeks on Tuesday nights 7-9pm.
But, once again, they didn't have sufficient interest to run the course.

Disappointment - pattern drafting class cancelled

I had been so excited about an upcoming intensive week-long course at Róisín Cross Silks in Dún Laoire next week. I have done a few dressmaking courses and I wanted to "up the ante" by undertaking a pattern drafting or pattern making course. I am devastated that it has been cancelled.
It's hard to find a pattern drafting course. Murphy Sheehy will be running one in the Autumn but I don't know that I can commit to trekking back to Dublin in the evenings from Maynooth. I'll see...

Sewaholic Renfrew Top in salmon pink

Tasia has some wonderful patterns on Sewaholic.net. She designs them herself and gets them printed. Really friendly presentation and a basic storage envelope. I bought the Renfrew Top pattern from Sewbox.co.uk but I think there are a few other stockists in Europe and UK (not sure about Ireland, specifically).

I made "C" with the cowl neck...

...but with the long sleeves of "A"...

...and added 2 inches to the length (as I like my tops long). [Pity about the awful leggings, and the slumpy posture.]

The pattern called for a "stable knit" - the jersey I used - bought from Hickey's Henry Street - is quite light and as you can see, a little bit too see-through. The wrist bands have stretched badly out of shape.
Most of the seams are done on an overlocker. I used the machine at my sewing class at the Grafton Design Academy in Dublin. But I've since bought myself an overlocker. Exciting!
Cowl neck...

I'm not sure if I misread the pattern or if there's a mistake in it - my cowl is actually inside out! The seam connecting the two pieces and the seam at the centre back were facing opposite directions which didn't look right. I re-stitched one of them (at my teacher's advice, I hasten to add) but that resulted in the cowl being inside out. All my friends assure me they would never notice... but I know...

Fabric

Viscose Jersey

100% Viscose

Sewing Class - Murphy Sheehy

I just started a sewing class at Murphy Sheehy. It's excellent. The tutor is Violet and she's so patient and attentive. It's exactly what I dreamed a sewing class would be. The room is small. The girls are friendly.
I'm making a skirt in black crepe satin.